Susie C Shore Instructions to make Fabric Bandages
“FABRIC BANDAGES”
It’s hard to get a smooth line on the openings, so I don’t often leave openings for turning. Instead, I cut a slit on the back of a project, through the back layer only, just big enough for turning. Then I make a “Fabric Bandage.” Cutting scraps of both the base fabric and paper-backed fusible adhesive about ½” wide by the length of the slit, fuse them together Following Manufacturers Instructions, and trim round the ends (to look like a real bandage). Then remove the paper-backing, position the Fabric Bandage over the slit and fuse in place, FMI. You will need to decide the location where a slit would work best or at all - but if you’re a little lazy like me, you’ll love “Fabric Bandages”!
Susie C Shore Instructions to make Smooth Curved Openings
“HOW TO MAKE SMOOTH CURVED OPENINGS”
Several people have asked us at Susie C Shore Designs if there a better way to make “Smooth Curved” openings, outside of using a lot of stream blasting? Well, there is! I learned a trick from a lady in my neighborhood when I was learning to sew zippers in (a very long time ago) that eliminates a lot of measuring and pinning, and applied the method to making smooth curved openings.
Stitch to where you want to leave an opening (or as noted on the pattern) and lock the stitch. Then change stitch length to basting stitch length, stitch to the end of the opening, lock stitch, and change stitch length back to normal. Finish stitching around the project. Here’s the trick - iron the seam allowance (in the basted area) open, then remove basting stitches. You should see a nice line of holes which will be your reference marks to maintain the smooth line when the item is turned right side out. Cut away any batting (batting only) even with the line of stitch holes. Turn item right side out; the opening seam allowance should be inside. If not, you may still need to press a little along the stitch holes, and the curved opening edges should be nice and smooth. Stitch opening closed.
However, if you’re lazy like me, try the “Fabric Bandage” below. I first introduced the concept of a “Fabric Bandage” in my book “Christmas Ornaments In A Hurry”, published in 1994 by American School Of Needlework and written by me (Suzanne Tigue Shore, aka Susie C Shore).
Susie C Shore Instructions to make Fabric Bandages
“FABRIC BANDAGES”
It’s hard to get a smooth line on the openings, so I don’t often leave openings for turning. Instead, I cut a slit on the back of a project, through the back layer only, just big enough for turning. Then I make a “Fabric Bandage.” Cutting scraps of both the base fabric and paper-backed fusible adhesive about ½” wide by the length of the slit, fuse them together Following Manufacturers Instructions, and trim round the ends (to look like a real bandage). Then remove the paper-backing, position the Fabric Bandage over the slit and fuse in place, FMI. You will need to decide the location where a slit would work best or at all - but if you’re a little lazy like me, you’ll love “Fabric Bandages”!
"BAR TACKING"
Bar-Tack: A group of closely-sewn, back-and-forth stitches using a wide zig-zag
stitch/satin stitch (4.5 width x .0 length).
"Holy Cow"#ST-2214
Sew up fun Cow Pot Holders, Mug Mats, Trivets or just for fun! Super Quick and they make Great Gifts!
Approximate finished size 9” x 9”.
There has been questions about the Ears, so please read Instructions #12 & #13
12. With remaining Cow Base Fabric (or FQ for contrasting Ears), cut two 5" x 11" pieces, layer RST and trace 2 Ears (a right & left Ear); leave enough room for SA. Using a ¼” SA, stitch around each Ear, leaving no opening(s); trim SA to a scant ¼”, clip curves/corners as needed. Cut a small slit through the back side only, as noted on the pattern. Turn RS out and smooth SA with turning tool, then press flat. Whip-stitch openings closed.
13. Position sewn Ears as noted on the pattern (or as desired) and top-stitch in place through all layers along the straight bottom edge of each Ear as noted on the pattern.
Here’s another tip:
I trace make a working “Muzzle”; I use quilter’s plastic, but paper will work too. Then I cut along the “Smile” line being sure to mark the start and stop lines (and bottom seam allowance), and use it to trace the Smile(s) so they will be the same.
But you can always stitch your own style Smile.
"Gardening Gnomes"
#ST-2109
"HOW TO CUT FUR"
For Gnome Beards
1. This is what my fur looks like after it’s been hand-washed and hung to dry.
2. This picture shows a 10" x 5" piece of Fur, plus a ruler, marker, scissors and a small brush - all the supplies you’ll need to cut your Fur. You will need more Fur depending on how many cute Gardening Gnomes you are going to make (a 10" x 5" piece of Fur will make five - 10" x 1" strips of Fur if cut correctly). 
3. This picture shows the “Knit” back of the Fur; when you cut your Fur, you’ll want to cut through JUST the knit backing - otherwise you’ll destroy the next row of Fur (as well as fill your workroom with loose Fur fibers). 
4. Using a small brush, brush fur in the direction it will hang on your project.
5. I use Gingher 5" knife edge craft scissors, but you can use any scissors with a nice thin sharp edge that you can wiggle under the Fur and cut through just the knit backing. 
6. As you can see after cutting in this manner, the remaining long Fur remains intact for the next cut and you will not have a work room filled with Fur fibers.
7. Cut more pieces of Fur as needed for your project(s).
"Gardening Gnomes"#ST-2109
How To Apply The Gnome Cut Fur
1. This is a Potted Gnome ready for his beard to be applied.
2. Start wrapping and gluing Fur from the side seam, across the front of the head.
3. Continue wrapping and gluing Fur around back of the head and then again over the front Fur that’s already in place.
4. Top of head is shown with double-wrapped and glued Fur.Gardening Gnomes
#ST-2109
How To Shape Hat
1. One sewn Hat and an 8½” piece of 18 gauge wire.
2. Fold wire in half and twist ends together. Spread the center width of the loop,so that it fits completely inside the Hat.
3. Following pattern instructions, add a dab of glue to the top of the curved wire
and insert into Hat top; allow glue to dry.
4. Shape Hat with your hands by bending the wire until shape is as desired. 
5. Position shaped Gnome Hat to cover the top of the cut Fur edges and glue in place.Continue with remaining instructions.
FOR 2020
"Jam Jar Labels"
For "Toast & Jam" #ST-2027 pattern
For printable labels onto June Tailor prepared fabric sheets, or traceable for embroidery.
We included more than just “Jam” labels, like Jelly Beans, Candy Corn, Peppermint Twists, Etc.,
for other holidays and gift giving. Make jars in your favorite style or content, even Fireflies!
Click on the link below, then print desired pages and follow Jam Jar Label Instructions
on Page #1 of the pattern.
https://media.rainpos.com/4104/2027_jam_jar_label_labels.pdf
Page of Blank Label for use with printable labels onto June Taylor Prepared Sheets
https://media.rainpos.com/4104/2027_blank_embroidery_labels.pdf
For Year 2019
Princess Lay-A #ST-1901 - Visual Aids for Instruction #5 THE STACK and trimming Insul-Bright Out Of Beak Area.
For Year 2018
Santa's Hat #ST-1826 - Visual Aids for making Chenille
Visual Aid For Making Chenille
A "How-To Visual" For "Feed Happy Hippo" #ST-1812
Sew Mod put together a
"Hot Who" Pot Holder Tutorial
Enjoy!
https://sewmod.wordpress.com/2014/05/21/hot-who-owl-hot-pads-tutorial/
Knitter Uncurl Labels
Click on this link for PDF file for the Label Art, follow instructions provided in the pattern for use.
Easter Egg Hunt Bias Binding Instructions
Click on this link Easter Egg Hunt for a printable PDF instruction sheet for binding your place mats!
Enjoy!
Susie C Shore Instructions to make Smooth Curved Openings
“HOW TO MAKE SMOOTH CURVED OPENINGS”
Several people have asked us at Susie C Shore Designs if there a better way to make “Smooth Curved” openings, outside of using a lot of stream blasting? Well, there is! I learned a trick from a lady in my neighborhood when I was learning to sew zippers in (a very long time ago) that eliminates a lot of measuring and pinning, and applied the method to making smooth curved openings.
Stitch to where you want to leave an opening (or as noted on the pattern) and lock the stitch. Then change stitch length to basting stitch length, stitch to the end of the opening, lock stitch, and change stitch length back to normal. Finish stitching around the project. Here’s the trick - iron the seam allowance (in the basted area) open, then remove basting stitches. You should see a nice line of holes which will be your reference marks to maintain the smooth line when the item is turned right side out. Cut away any batting (batting only) even with the line of stitch holes. Turn item right side out; the opening seam allowance should be inside. If not, you may still need to press a little along the stitch holes, and the curved opening edges should be nice and smooth. Stitch opening closed.
However, if you’re lazy like me, try the “Fabric Bandage” below. I first introduced the concept of a “Fabric Bandage” in my book “Christmas Ornaments In A Hurry”, published in 1994 by American School Of Needlework and written by me (Suzanne Tigue Shore, aka Susie C Shore).
Susie C Shore Instructions to make Fabric Bandages
“FABRIC BANDAGES”
It’s hard to get a smooth line on the openings, so I don’t often leave openings for turning. Instead, I cut a slit on the back of a project, through the back layer only, just big enough for turning. Then I make a “Fabric Bandage.” Cutting scraps of both the base fabric and paper-backed fusible adhesive about ½” wide by the length of the slit, fuse them together Following Manufacturers Instructions, and trim round the ends (to look like a real bandage). Then remove the paper-backing, position the Fabric Bandage over the slit and fuse in place, FMI. You will need to decide the location where a slit would work best or at all - but if you’re a little lazy like me, you’ll love “Fabric Bandages”!
"BAR TACKING"
Bar-Tack: A group of closely-sewn, back-and-forth stitches using a wide zig-zag
stitch/satin stitch (4.5 width x .0 length).
"BAR TACKING"
Bar-Tack: A group of closely-sewn, back-and-forth stitches using a wide zig-zag
stitch/satin stitch (4.5 width x .0 length).
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I love a good cup of tea, below is how I brew my tea.
To Brew A Perfect Cup Of Tea1. Put the water on to boil - a real rolling boil.
2. Warm the teapot (run some hot tap water in the pot - don't forget to empty it)!
3. Add tea (1 tsp. per cup) to pot. (or tea bags)
4. Pour the boiling water over the tea. Stir.
5. Cover the pot with your tea cozy and let the tea steep, five minutes is all. Stir again.
The tea is ready!!
6. Pour a cup of tea - cover remaining tea in pot with your tea cozy, it will be hot and ready for your second cup.
We offer a few cute Tea Cosies and will be offering some more cute one's in the future!
We proved instructions in our Embroidery patterns but if you want more help
try the link below, it provides a great tutorial provided by Craftsy.
Top 10 MUST Know Hand Embroidery Stitches
